Everything You Need to Start Resin 3D Printing (Without Ruining Your Desk, Hands, or Sanity)

 So, you've decided to dive into the world of resin 3D printing? Good call! The prints come out looking crisp, detailed, and straight-up beautiful—like something out of a factory. But before you start printing miniatures so detailed they’d make a Warhammer player weep, let’s talk about what you actually need to get started.

The Printer (Obviously)

First things first, you need a resin 3D printer. If you don’t already have one, beginner-friendly options include the Anycubic Photon Mono 2, which is affordable and reliable, or the Elegoo Mars 4, which costs a little more but produces crazy levels of detail. If you’re feeling ambitious and want to print big, something like the Anycubic M3 Max might be up your alley.

These printers use UV light to cure liquid resin layer by layer. Unlike filament printers, which melt plastic, resin printers take a pool of liquid and turn it into something solid. It's basically magic—if magic involved a lot of cleaning and safety precautions.

The Resin (Choose Wisely, Young Padawan)

Resin comes in different types, and no, you can’t just grab any bottle and hope for the best. Standard resin is great for miniatures and general printing. Tough resin is better if you want durability for functional parts. Water-washable resin makes cleaning easier, but the prints aren’t always as strong. Then there’s ABS-like resin, which is stronger and slightly flexible, making it great for practical models.

Some resins smell awful, so check reviews before committing your workspace (and nostrils) to something truly horrifying.

Safety Gear (Because You Like Having Hands That Work)

Let’s be real—resin is toxic. You don’t want this stuff on your skin or in your eyes unless you enjoy unexpected trips to the ER. A solid setup includes nitrile gloves, since normal gloves won’t protect against resin. Safety glasses are a must because at some point, you will splash resin by accident. A good mask, preferably a VOC-rated respirator, keeps your lungs safe from the fumes. Also, try not to print in a tiny, unventilated room unless you enjoy feeling lightheaded for no reason.

Curing & Cleaning Station (For Making Prints Not Sticky)

When your print is done, it’s not actually done. It’s still covered in uncured resin, which means it’s a gooey, toxic mess. First, you need to wash it. If you’re using regular resin, a bath in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) will do the trick. If you’re using water-washable resin, then, well… water works. You can do this manually in a container with a brush, or get fancy with an Anycubic Wash & Cure station.

After washing, the print needs to cure under UV light. You can buy a curing station, use a cheap UV nail lamp, or if you’re feeling old-school, just leave it outside in direct sunlight. The sun takes longer, but hey, it’s free.

Other Essentials (a.k.a. Things You Don’t Think About Until You Need Them)

A plastic scraper is handy for getting prints off the build plate without turning it into a rage-fueled battle. Paper towels are a necessity because resin is messy, and you will spill something. A silicone mat under your setup helps protect your desk from those inevitable accidents. Extra FEP film is good to have because the clear sheet at the bottom of your resin vat wears out over time.

Bonus: The “Why Did I Do This” Phase

At some point, things will go wrong. Your print might fail. You might spill resin all over your hands, desk, and possibly your soul. You may wonder why you even started this hobby in the first place. Stay calm. Resin printing has a learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be making incredibly detailed models that filament printers could only dream of.

Now go forth and print cool stuff—just don’t forget to clean up after yourself before your workspace turns into a toxic wasteland.